2sd845 pdf

We are always happy to hear from you so feel free to contact us. We will inspect all the goods before shipment,ensure all the products at good condition and ensure the parts are new originalmatch datasheet. After all the goods are ensure no problems afterpacking, we will packing safely and send by global express. It exhibitsexcellent puncture and tear resistance along with good seal integrity.

If some of the items you received aren't of perfect quality, we would resiponsibly arrange your refund or replacement. But the items must remain their orginal condition. Add To BOM. Product comparison.

Request for Quotation. Ratings Please rate the product! Comment after login. Paypal charge 4. We provide high quality products, thoughtful service and after sale guarantee. Ship with ESD antistatic protection. A: Yes, Our product technical engineer will help you with the 2SD pinout information, application notes, replacement, datasheet in pdf, manual, schematic, equivalent, cross reference.

Our systems and compliance with the standards have been, and continue to be, regularly reviewed and tested to maintain continuous conformance.

These requirements ensure Veswin Electronics's long-term commitment to continuous improvements. Note: We do our best to ensure correct product data appears on our website.

If you spot an error, please notify us. AMEX accepted via Paypal. We can also accept Bank Transfer. Include your shipping address and the preferred shipping method. We will then send you full instructions by email. We never store your card details, these remain with Paypal. Welcome to Veswin! Your shopping cart is empty! Please select the model you want to purchase first. Batch delete. Battery Capacitors Resistors Buzzers 65 Tools If you have any suggestions or links for an equivalent that would be awesome because it is going to have to be replaced.

I can take it to my University parts guy tomorrow and see if he can possibly match it.. Perhaps this little guy that snapped so easily was the problem all along? I believe you identified it as the VAS. Also, still not completely sure how to test these two JFET's that are thrown in the mix Q20 and Q17 I included my testing with the diode setting and doing it how I did the other ones essentially.. Any help with how to properly test these would be awesome.

I've watched some videos but it seems you have to have a very complete testing setup at your house to properly do so. It still seems that all components are testing good? So narrowed down to output transformer? Heres the test pdf. Realized I messed up on first column of old output transistors. I put. Attached Files Jc Transistor Test2. Also the pictures of the transistor with the snapped leg.

That's great, thanks for organizing the measurements so clearly. Yup, all the other transistors look good. Don't worry about the JFETs, they are used as switching transistors for muting and there's no way that a fault in the power amp would have propagated to them.

It's not unusual to find parts that don't match the schematics, maybe that's what they had in stock at the time and decided to use it Get a couple to replace it too in the other channel, for the sake of symmetry, and the same goes for the output transistors, though you should take the measurements in the healthy channel with all the stock transistors first.

It's past bedtime this side of the pond, tomorrow I'll tell you what you need to measure next. Edit: it's advisable to put base stopper resistors on the new output transistors, so you'll also need 4 x 10 ohm resistors. Sorry, one more thing! Waiting on parts to come in btw!

Good, while you wait you could check a few more resistors, they are unlikely to be broken but it's better to make sure before powering it up for the measurements: R, R, R the ones connected to the differential pair QQ24 , R the one at the emitter of the VAS and R the feedback resistor from the output to the base of Q Connect a loudspeaker to the output of the good channel only, nothing plugged into the input, turn down all controls, chorus off, then power up the amp.

Needless to say be very careful with those test probes: one little slip, you short something and innocent components die. Also I'm sure you're aware that there are lethal voltages in there, so even more careful with your fingers. Before powering up, do a test run to check that all measurement points are easily accessible with good clearance between the test probes and any adjacent component leads or PCB traces, rehearse how you're going to measure. If some points are easier to access from above and some from below, it's ok to do a first set of measurements, switch off, reposition the amp, switch on again and do a second set.

First of all measure the rails to make sure the power supply is in order and it gets to the power amps, so measure from ground e. Then leave it on for about 10 minutes for the heatsink temperature to stabilize, then measure the following voltages: Faulty channel: - Ground to loudspeaker output point 36 - Between the bases of the drivers Q29 and Q30 or the collector and emitter of Q32 - Across the following resistors: R R , R R , R 10k , R14 k Healthy channel: - Ground to loudspeaker output point 21 - Between the emitter of Q11 and collector of Q9 points 18 and 14 - Between the bases of the drivers Q12 and Q13 or the collector and emitter of Q15 - Across the following resistors: R54 R , R44 R , R69 10k , R38 K The measurements in the healthy channel are to have a reference for the various biases before changing anything, and the ones in the faulty channel are to make sure that everything is in order, even if the transistors measure ok with the tester it's better to confirm that they're good with the actual biases of the circuit.

Last final to do and then update haha also my apartment flooded yesterday! Amps safe tho! Weirdly enough I just fixed a JC that also had blown both of the internal fuses but not the main AC fuse. Turned out the wires on one of the speaker cones were shorting out to the speaker frame which was grounded.

Found this out because we saw the sparks! The suspect wires had been soldered too far up on the solder tabs so there wasn't enough slack to keep them clear. Not sure if that was a factory issue or a repair someone made.

Probably unrelated to your problems, but it's something to check. Attached Files JC Testing 1. Oops, forgot to mention: put the fuses back. Unless when you do it, with the rest of the circuit like that the bad output transistors removed , they do keep blowing up, in which case there's a problem elsewhere Is that what's happening? Edit: I reread my instructions and I didn't mention to remove the bad output transistors from the fautly channel.

Sorry, my bad, I assumed you would but should have made it clear Interesting update! So removed the faulty output transistors, have good channel plugged into speaker cabinet, all knobs down, chorus off, good fuses in, make sure no wires touching anywhere, all good Terrible, loud, crazy sounds from speaker cabinet, fuses still fine but turned it off being scared I might damage a speaker and I live in an apartment and it was crazy loud.

Amp was on for about 30 seconds and fuses remained fine. Any ideas on what could be producing the noise? I do have all the news caps in that I could replace.

Only thing I can see it being akin to sound wise was a really old crappy capacitor in a tube amp I had, or kind of sounded like a fender bandmaster I had when the screen grid resistors had blown.